Rain, Rain Go Away

What would life on an island be like with out a week long tropical storm or two? I have been mopping and wringing out towels for 3 days now. The wind has been howling day and night, and our already cluttered apartment stuffed with our luggage and things for our house is now a disaster. I have shuffled things all over trying to find islands of dry area and our apartment looks like a rummage sale. Just when I was beginning to really feel sorry for myself, a friend on the island posted pictures of a family just down the road from me (one of many) who live in a tar paper house with water streaming in from the roof, walls and windows onto mud floors. I suddenly had a reality check and realized how blessed I am in my muy rustico apartment.
Building is coming along great despite the storm. They are building closets, couches and counters on the first level. Things are coming down to the wire now where any changes can not be made easily. Lucy, our architect, has been so patient with last minute changes. I am so excited about how the house is coming along and wish it were done yesterday. I don't really see how people can build without being here. It is impossible to plan it perfectly. In fact perfect is a word you must eliminate from your vocabulary in Mexico (any place for that matter.) What things look like on paper and what they look like in person are two different things. For instance, I thought the view from my second story balcony facing the street would be a stunning view of the bay. No. It is a view of the college across the busy street in front of our house. Stan had a brilliant idea to have tall built-in flower beds on the second floor balcony that blocked the busy street view below, but allowed you to see the pretty tops of palm trees and a distant view of the bay over the foliage. In addition it created a cozy and private feel to the balcony. If we would not have been able to stand on that balcony ourselves, we would have never realized that changes needed to be made. And there are countless little details that your architect questions you about when you are here that she would just have to guess at otherwise or try to ask by e-mail. Lucy and I spent 2 hours today combing through design books and hammering out subtle design details. How tall will the concrete sofa be? How tall will the end tables be? Can we put stone on the stairway facing? How about the bases of the columns? Can we put stone on the kitchen back-splash. What about the back wall of the outdoor grill? On and on the list goes. Should we do wood shutters or aluminum? If we do wood, how will we secure them? Think about rust, think about wind, think about water leaking in, think about ventilation, think about security, and last but not least, think about cost. The considerations are endless.
And soooo with all the considerations, calculations, and decisions you can see why I am quickly approaching a vegetative state. It's time to set the house plans aside. Pop some popcorn and veg out in front of the TV with my husband and daughter. I will see what discovery channel has to offer if Sophia has her way or the current action film if Stan has his. And so for tonight I am going to ignore the howling wind, relish the warm crunch of popcorn and snuggle up to my loved ones. Buenos noches mi amigos.

Top of the World

Everyday I am loving the island more. Today is Saturday, and it is my favorite time of the week. It is the one day I can totally relax - no Taebo, no home school and no appointments. The steady sound of the surf mixed with the warm tropical breeze has a tranquilizing effect. They say watching an aquarium lowers your blood pressure. Well magnify that by one hundred, and you will get a glimpse of my tranquility.
I am so glad we are building just outside of town so I can enjoy the privacy of the beach and waves alone. We are close enough, however, to walk or take my golf cart to town in minutes if I get the urge to socialize. Today I may indulge myself and drive in for a crepe filled with Nutella (a hazelnut chocolate) and bananas. Yes, I definitely love Saturdays.
Today I will go by the house and the workers will be gone, so I can walk around and imagine it finished. They have started on the second level, and it is so exciting watching everything pull together. I couldn't be happier with our results so far. The house is evolving as Lucy, Stan and I make changes along the way. I am so glad we are here during the process, because when you are actually standing in a room you realize that some of your ideas may not work well. Yesterday I totally changed Grace's room configuration to open it up more. We've also added windows where there were none and little details here and there.
Also at one time I thought roof top terraces were hardly used. But now as I am sitting on one writing and overlooking the ocean I have changed my mind. David, a new friend we met, rented the apartment behind us for several months. He would sit on the roof everyday and watch the fish swimming 3 stories below. I would go up on the roof to hang laundry, and he would point out his latest discoveries, such as a parrot fish or a sting ray. Now I have discovered the delights of this private pinnacle. So here I am looking out over waters rippling in various shades of turquoise planning my own ivory tower of stucco and stone - my own little top of the world.

Bonanza

I am sitting on the patio of our rented flat listening to the surf gently rolling onto the shore with the morning sun warming my skin. Days like these are called "bonanzas" by the locals. A bonanza is one of those days when the ocean is smooth and the sun is full. If you are a snorkeler you are dropping everything else and heading to the water. It is peaceful tranquility compared to the normal winter winds that whip up waves and sand. Pelicans are skimming over the water, and I am imagining what it will be like to sit on my own patio.
I love our little flat with all it's "rustic charm," but I am looking forward to the modern conveniences of: hot water that I don't have to boil, being able to plug in more than one electric appliance with out breakers flipping, and most of all a fully functioning kitchen with an oven. But for now I will just have to collect remember-when stories about the old Mexican flat with turquoise walls and broken everything.
Fortunately, our building is progressing rapidly. The bottom floor is walled in and has it's ceiling. Tomorrow our 15 inch hard wood columns are being placed, and we are quite exited since they are one of the major vocal points when you walk in the front gate. I am very happy with my architect and my work crew. Lucy is talented, dedicated and honest. She understands what we are trying to create. The workers are hardworking, always there, and don't drink. The other day one of the Mayan workers who isn't much more than 4 feet tall was carrying a steel reinforced concrete girder on his shoulder! Tomorrow our half ton columns are placed and somehow those guys will move them. I love Mexican ingenuity. Stan used to joke that Mexicans can build a house with a metro (measuring tape) and a piece of string. And they can! I have learned a lot about using what I have to supply a need.
I love this island and it's people. Sure on an island 4 miles long and half a mile wide there can be gossip and factions. But just like everything in life, you have to focus on what is good and overlook the weaknesses. I don't have to look very hard to see the most beautiful ocean in the world. I also love the smile on little Tomas' face when he says an English word right, or buying fruits and vegetables from Raphael, or chicken from Catrina, and Sophia's favorite amigo, Jose, the ice cream man. They all make up the cultura of Isla Mujeres. When you look beyond the obvious beauty of the ocean and palm trees into the hearts of the people you will see that indeed life here is a bonanza!

Winter on Isla Mujeres can be described in one word - wind. It is always howling at various decibels. Even now I hear it whining outside my window. Today has been an exceptionally gray day on the island, but usually we have a rapturous several hours of sunshine that permeates the tropical air with liquid heat. Today is not such a day. Sophia and I finished our first day of volunteering at the English Language School near our flat. It was a small class today, but we had a great time. Sophia was timid at first, but as we played a Spanish/English game and laughed with all the kids she began to loosen up. At the end of class she didn't want to leave.
At the house things are moving at a rapid pace. The bottom floor is walled in and they are putting up 8 x8 hardwood beams on the ceilings. They are gorgeous and really add warmth and texture to the house. They will begin pouring the ceiling next week and are working on the exterior staircase now. We've changed our front arches to include 14 inch square wood beams on stone bases. We have made important changes as we progress and I have been so thankful that we are here to see the process and to make adjustments as needed. Lucy, our architect, has been wonderful to work with and she really understands the atmosphere we are trying to create. She and her husband, Sergio (an engineer) have been a huge blessing.
Last week was 5 days of Carnival on the island. Everywhere you went you saw sequins and feathers on guys and girls. What I loved about the carnival participants on the island is that they were all shapes, sizes, ages and genders. They were men, kids, and grammas; and they all got in on the fun. It was quite an extravaganza. Now it is back to normal life. Time to fix chicken tacos, and then boil the water to do dishes. If it weren't so cloudy I would hang wash on the line on the roof. Instead I will take the dogs for their several mile walk while Sophia goes to her dance class. Life is good on Isla Mujeres.

The Journey Continues!

The Journey continues on Isla Mujeres as we return after a wonderful winter break with family and friends. Although I enjoyed the beautiful snowfall in Missouri, a couple weeks of it is sufficient. I've traded my wool coat and winter boots for flip flops and my Panama hat. We are thrilled with sunny 85 degree days and the sound of the surf out our window. Our house is finally beginning to look like a house. The bottom floor is getting close to having all it's walls. It was so amazing to be standing in rooms that I spent months drawing on paper. I am very happy with the progress and the work that Lucy and Sergio are doing. She ordered the wood timbers for the ceilings several days ago. I can't wait to see them up.
We have a new flat that we are living in that I describe as muy rustico! It is much more spacious than the one room we lived in for 2 and a half months last time. It has 2 extra large turquoise colored rooms. The kitchen, livingroom and Sophia's bed are in one room and our bed is in the other room. What it lacks in creature comforts - A/C, ceiling fans, and hot water in the sinks (there is hot water in the shower), it makes up in space and a wonderful view. We are right on the water so we get a constant sea breeze so it isn't too bad without A/C. It may be another story in June. We are right in a Mexican Colonia called la Gloria. Stuart, Oscar (our two dogs) and I went exploring this morning and I found a tortillaria (tortilla factory) a couple blocks away. It is worth the walk for fresh, warm tortillas. There is a fairly nice grocers close by, a jogging trail around a lagoon, and a panderia (bread and pastry shop) just around the corner. I may need that jogging trail!
Sophia has started a modern dance class and oil painting class. Next week we will also start to schedule volunteering at the language school for Mexican children on the island. The language school is walking distance from our flat so it will be nice to be in the neighborhood with many of the children we will be helping. We still need to go to Cancun and buy a few supplies. In another week I think we will be settled and off and running. For now we are happy to continue our dream in the making on sunny Isla Mujeres!

Here in Missouri we are digging in for sub zero temperatures, but on Isla Mujeres they are about to fiinnaallly begin building walls. All the new pictures on the slide show related to the building are the foundation. But what a pretty foundation it is! The pictures are basically the support walls, footings and cisterns under the house. Today I am pulling out my first suitcase in preparations for our departure in 3 weeks. I'll be carrying things like faucets, 10 jars of natural peanut butter (non-existent in Cancun), a bread maker, rice cooker, water filtration system, comforters, protein powder, and on and on the list goes ending with a Chihuahua and Stuart (my little black poochie). Don't worry; I'm not packing them today. We will certainly be a sight to see at the airport - 3 people with 6 giant suitcases, and 6 carry-ons (2 of which are dogs!) I'm thinking about drugging Stuart and possibly myself! Anyway, it makes this cold weather a little more bearable knowing that in 3 weeks I'll be back to my ocean breezes, sunshine and guacamole!